Aveiro is breezily cold after Lisbon and Coimbra. We get off at the small train station and wait a while for our Uber to show up. The driver has lived in the United states and we are happy to make fluent conversation in English. Our Portuguese is comically basic, and our driver is in love with the peaceful life of Aviero. Our apartment, is close to the canals, and he has to drive around construction barricades to get us close. Aveiro is among the most populated cities in Portugal and construction is in full swing around the center, but even a big city in Portugal can feel charmingly small.

Barcos Moliceiros, the colorful boats of Aveiro constantly buzz through the canals quietly and gently( in fact they are electric). It has been called the Venice of Portugal but Aveiro is much more than that. River Vouga flows through the canals to the Atlantic ocean and long before the line of tourists waiting to board them the Barcos have been around to harvest Molico the sea weed that fertilized agricultural land.

The city brims with latent energy through out the day and through our rented apartment’s french windows we are able to see the boats pass by at all times of the day. The barcos or boats are incredibly colorful and each boat is hand painted with its own uniquely characteristic art. The polar ends of religion and voyeurism seem to be favorite subjects .

Hearing about the city’s famous dessert ‘ovo moles'( pronounced ‘Ovosh Molesh’ ) we head over to the bakeries dotting the sides of the canals and try some. Ovo Moles come in myriad shapes and we select a barrel shaped one to taste. Pastel de Nata at Lisbon and Coimbra had been mouth melting in their goodness but Ovo Moles happens to be pure sugar mixed with the yolk of an egg, sealed into a thin wafer casing.

On a table next to ours a very warm and smiling elderly couple are having their coffee. The lady speaks english and we learn they are from Guimaraes a mountainous medieval town. The man isn’t able to speak with us due to our lack of knowledge in Portuguese but he manages to convey a lot in dramatic gestures and smiles. They are inviting us to their town. It is apparently very beautiful and full of history and the cuisine very different from what we have tasted until now. Arjun is very happy to meet new people who have the charm of advanced age and remind him of his grandparents who he misses a lot. The Ovo Moles on the other hand isn’t to his liking and he expertly spits out the whole thing onto Satya’s lap.

Aveiro has excellent restaurants and the sea food is fresh . Without a reservation though you are going to have trouble getting seated. People here love dining out and the restaurants have a long wait at night. For lunch we get lucky and eat the very best vegetable soup and a charcuterie board with some excellent crusty bread. With the sun and the beautiful colors of the city its a beautiful meal.

Satya feels a tightening sensation in his throat as we eat the meal. We wonder if it is the seafood or something else. As he happens to be a seafood junkie we wonder how this is possible but it turns out to be one of the cheeses. Apparently many people can react to some aged cheeses in this way. After drinking some water and taking some time he is completely fine. If a reaction, it is an uncomfortable albeit small one.

Aveiro is one of the best places to see Azulejos, the white and blue painted tiles that are Portugal’s trademark architectural embellishment. The facades of entire buildings are covered in Azulejos in an attempt to keep them cool during summer. They are so sturdy in their make they have lasted more than a few centuries even on the outside. Churches, public buildings and even the entryway of homes boast the blue and white tiles.

We take an afternoon stroll across over the beautifully tasseled Lovers Bridge and walk further to view some in churches and cathedrals. The Igreja de Sao Jao Evangelista, the Carmelite Church has some of the best and is dubbed as the Azulejos museum. Pastoral scenes with intricate details cover the walls. Landscapes and trees, castles, noblemen and commoners are all depicted with great skill.