The Roman ruins at Conimbrigra, are an interesting day trip from Coimbra. After nearly 2000 years in the hot sun, the limestone blocks that once lined the Roman highway between Olisipo (more recently called Lisbon) and Bracara Augusta (Braga) are a little crumbly, but the beautifully tiny mosaic tiles are very evocative.

Conimbriga’s was a celtic settlement in the 9th century BC ( roughly 2800 years ago). In the 2nd Century BC, under the romans, it flourished and its large amphitheater indicates that the city’s population could be around 10,000. The roman’s built thermal baths, public forums and lined the floor with mosaics. Then in 450 AD the Suebi, a Germanic tribe invaded and the inhabitants fled and settled into Coimbra. The very “barbarian hordes” from the movie Gladiator !

Olive trees abound near the ticket office and we have to taste them, regardless of how un ripe they are. The green olives are really bitter and Arjun takes one bite and spits it out. It stings and burns is his judgement. Later on while talking to our host Alice (who amazingly has a Phd on Goa’s public works) , I find out that olives are ready by December. But this year, apparently it has not rained enough and the olives are unlikely to grow well.

Under the shade of cypress tress, we picnic on an orange. Iberian lizards scurry on the hot rocks. We see the familiar fennel and smell it. I also see another strange plant which inaturalist identifies as a sea squill, which is a toxic plant.

We tour the thermal baths, and gaze at the three lonely pillars that remain in the forum. A dense and green valley borders one end, but sadly there is a fence , and we cannot venture down into it.

As we finish our walk, we observe three Portuguese men eat a wild red fruit that grows abundantly. They tell us it is called Madrones and is great to eat. Arjun loves the sweet madrones and we feast on them.

In the museum , we see ancient pottery and Arjun points out an “ancient peoples bammer”, which is a great way to classify ancient agricultural tools !